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Stone Setting Method
Stone setting is one of the essential stages of jewelry making, in which gemstones are
attached in a metal casting. The main objective of stone setting is to hold a gemstone securely as well as to
enhance the brilliance of a gemstone by Showing its cut, clarity and color. Jewelry manufacturers use numerous
methods to set a gemstone into a jewelry item, which generally is based on gemstone's cut and proportion. Some
of these methods and techniques are accepted and appreciated worldwide, which are described as under:
Prong setting is the most popular setting for side and center diamonds in
jewelry for a variety of reasons. Because it consists of four or six claws that
cradle the diamond, it allows the maximum amount of light to enter a stone
from all angles. This makes the diamond appear larger and more brilliant.
And it can hold large diamonds more securely.
With a Bezel setting, a rim holds the stone and surrounds the gem. Bezels
can have straight edges, scalloped edges, or can be molded into any shape to
accommodate the stone. The backs can be opened or closed and they are used
to set earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and rings. Warmer-colored diamonds look
stunning when bezel set in yellow gold.
This setting is most frequently used for wedding and anniversary bands.
A Channel setting will set the stones right next to each other with no metal
separating them. The outer ridge of metals is then worked over the edges of
the stones. This protects the girdle area of the diamonds better than a bead
or prong setting and provides a smooth exterior surface.
Similar to the Channel setting, this type of setting is also most commonly
used in anniversary and wedding bands, but can also be seen in bracelets and
necklaces. It is a band of diamonds that holds each stone in by a long thin bar,
shared between two stones. The Bar setting combines a contemporary and
Stones are set closely together, separated by little beads of metal. Pave set
accent stones can enhance a modest center stone. Traditionally, pave refers
to a field or expanded area of beaded metal and stones. The pave setting
allows light to reflect off the many facets of a diamond because it uses
numerous small diamonds set with tiny prongs that create a continuous surface
of radiance and shimmer. This setting type is preferred for engagement rings
A tension setting refers to a diamond ring setting where the diamond is held
in place by pressure rather than with prongs, under a channel, or a bezel setting.
The gold or platinum setting is actually spring-loaded to exert pressure onto the
diamond, and tiny etchings/grooves are added to the gold or platinum in order to
create a shelf structure for the diamond's edges to rest. The diamond appears to
'float' or be suspended in the air with nothing holding it in place. It is a secure
setting type for a diamond engagement ring or wedding ring.
GYPSY OR FLUSH SETTING
You may know the Flush setting from men's jewelry you've seen. A setting
technique in which the gemstone is embedded within the band and the metal
from the band is used to secure the gemstone, leaving only the top of the
In bead setting, stones are placed in holes that have been drilled out on
the surface of a jewelry item. For this purpose, a seat is prepared on the metal
surface, by using a standard setting bur, to place the stone. Once the stone is
positioned in the seat, an engraving tool is used to raise the beads of metal from
the surrounding surface to hold a stone in place. These prongs are then rounded
and pushed over the edge of the stone with a beading tool. Although this method
is not used much these days but it was very common in the 20th century.
Invisible setting is a new and improved setting method that is considered as
one of the most difficult setting methods. In this setting, the stones are
positioned in such a manner so that metal is not visible from in-between stones
that ultimately show appearance of uninterrupted and continuous surface. In
this setting, stones are grooved just below the girdle and then those grooved
stones are slid onto metal tracks to hold them in place.
When diamonds or gemstones are set close together in a group, the result is
known as a cluster setting. Sometimes the stones can be arranged in the form
of a stylized flower, or just in an abstract arrangement. Cluster rings are usually
multi-level, with considerable height above the hand. The arrangement of the
stones can be open and airy looking, or they may be more tightly arranged.